Tom Ford: 'Fashion is the toughest industry in the world' 湯姆·福特:「時尚是世界上最艱難的產業。」


From his early days at Gucci to his successful forays into film, celebrated designer Tom Ford has gained a maverick reputation. In recent years this has been most evident in his approach to the fashion system.
從他早期在Gucci的日子到他成功進軍電影產業，名人設計師湯姆·福特就以標新立異出名。在近年來他進軍時尚圈後這樣的特徵又變得更加明顯。

Rarely keeping to a regular slot, venue, or indeed country, for his seasonal shows, Ford is known for his distinctive approach, maintaining an air of exclusivity by inviting only an elite few and often experimenting with the medium itself. Earlier this year he eschewed the runway for a short film.
很少見他一直停留在一個職位、一個地方甚至是一個國家，在他的季節時裝秀裡，福特最著名的就是與眾不同的手法，邀請精英並且親自去嘗試方法進而保持獨特性，今年初他為了一部短篇電影而停止了時尚事業。

Last February Ford announced he would present his Autumn-Winter 2016 menswear and womenswear collections in early September, coinciding with the delivery of the clothes in store. This approach -- widely referred to as "see now, buy now' -- is being similarly adopted by high-profile labels like Burberry, suggesting that this season could be a radical turning point in the way fashion is presented and consumed.
去年二月福特宣布他九月初將會發表2016年秋冬的男裝和女裝系列，同時會在實體店面上市，這樣的做法就是所謂的「即看、即買」（see now, buy now），而且已經被一些大品牌像是Burberry給效仿，這個概念被認為是這季時尚呈現和消費方式的轉捩點。

Speaking to Derek Blasberg ahead of the show Ford explained part of his reasoning behind the decision: "I think the words 'long lead' are not particularly meaningful in our culture. Everyone wants everything right now."
在時尚秀開始前福特跟德里克·布拉斯伯格說明他做這個決定的部分理由：「我任為『提前很多』在我們文化中並沒有多大的意義，每個人想要即刻得到每樣東西。」

"When you can buy something online and have it delivered the same day to your house in lots of key cities like you can now, it seems odd that you would look at clothes online and they would be everywhere, but you can't have them for five months. "
「現在很多主要城市，在線上購買某樣東西而那樣東西在訂購當天就送到家，而某些衣服你可以在網路上或是在任何地方都看到，但是你得要在五個月後才能有有他們，這樣的方式似乎有點奇怪。」

He revealed his game-changing collection earlier this week in a characteristically intimate setting: a dinner party at the Four Seasons in New York's Seagram Building. Celebrities like Julianne Moore, Tom Hanks, Rita Ora and Iman were in attendance.
他在這個星期初以典型且屬於自己的方式揭開了他迎向改革的新系列：在紐約的西格拉姆大廈四季餐廳舉行晚餐派對，像是茱莉安·摩爾、湯姆·漢克斯、瑞塔・歐拉和伊曼這樣的名人都有出息。

Not content with making a major fashion statement, Ford is also currently promoting his new film "Nocturnal Animals," first at the Venice Film Festival and then at the Toronto Film Festival. The film stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Amy Adams, Isla Fisher and Aaron Taylor-Johnson. So how does the designer balance his busy lifestyle?
不滿足於現在進行的主要時尚事業，福特最近同時在宣傳他的最新電影《夜行動物》，先後出席了威尼斯電影展和多倫多電影節，電影明星傑克·吉倫哈爾、艾米·亞當斯、艾拉·費雪和亞倫·強森，所以這個設計時到底是怎麼平衡他忙碌的生活方式呢？
"I'm extremely scheduled, really down to the half hour of every day."
「我時間都有經過嚴謹的安排，每天甚至連半個小時都會進行規劃。」


原文網址：https://goo.gl/1ZPUqv

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