What it's like to eat in London's naked restaurant 倫敦的裸體餐廳究竟是什麼樣子呢?
(CNN)-I'm
in a candlelit London restaurant, sitting opposite a total stranger on a
workday afternoon, and we're both completely naked.
And weirdly,
it's OK.
Mostly OK.
The
restaurant is Bunyadi, a newly opened eatery in a quiet corner of central
London that encourages customers to disrobe while enjoying a
"natural" dining experience.
(CNN)-在平日午後,我在倫敦的一間燭光餐廳裡,對面坐著完全不認識的陌生人,而我們完全都沒穿衣服。
而怪異的是,是合理的。
大部分是合理的。
這間餐廳名為「Bunyadi」(印度文的「自然、原始」之意),是倫敦市中心偏僻的角落新開的餐館,鼓勵顧客們脫光光享用一場原始的用餐體驗。
Bunyadi has
made headlines in recent weeks by attracting 46,000 people to its waiting list
for a three-month pop-up run over the summer.
I was there
for the press launch, alongside 25 or so other journalists dispatched to report
from the front line of naked dining.
So what's it
like?
「Bunyadi」只短暫營運夏天三個月,其等候名單就吸引了4萬6千人,在最近幾個禮拜,登上新聞頭版。
因為記者會,我跟約25位派遣新聞記者到那,第一線報導裸體用餐。
所以究竟是什麼樣子呢?
From
outside, the restaurant isn't much to look at -- which is probably the idea.
It's
discreetly located in a converted street-corner pub with blacked-out windows a
few quiet streets away from London's highest skyscraper, The Shard.
從外觀來看,可能是因為其設計理念的關係,這間餐廳很不起眼。
它很低調的位於離倫敦最高的摩天大樓-碎片大廈幾條冷清的街外,一間改建的街角酒吧,窗戶的外觀都是黑的。
The front
door leads into a small bar area, which looks pretty standard until folks start
emerging from the changing rooms wearing hotel-style bathrobes.
When tables
are ready and guests have had the requisite number of freshly mixed looseners,
they're then guided into the main dining area.
從前門進去會通到一處小酒吧區,看起來都非常地正常,直到人們穿著飯店式浴袍,陸續從更衣間走出來。
當座位安排好且顧客拿到寬衣解帶的新奇男女組合必備的號碼牌,那他們就會被帶到主要用餐區。
At first
it's disorientating.
It's
impossible not to surreptitiously double-take at the topless waitress leading
the way through the candlelit maze of bamboo screens that almost shield diners
from heavy scrutiny.
一開始會有點不知所措。
不可能不偷偷地打量裸上身的女服務生,引導著走過燭光迷宮,其竹簾是用來防止用餐者被強烈窺視的。
Time to strip
Then, once
the eyes grow accustomed to the bare flesh of the young male and female
waitstaff, things get (relatively) more normal.
Until it's
time to strip off.
該脫衣服了
然而,一旦眼睛習慣了年輕男女服務生的光溜溜的肉體,一切都變得相對地合理了。
接著就該脫衣服了。
Before that
happened, we got to chat to some of the staff about how they came to be working
in a naked restaurant, and what it's like to work there.
在這之前,我們會跟某些員工聊天,聊他們為何會來裸體餐廳工作,以及在這裡工作的情況。
"I
wanted to be around people who shared the same thoughts as me," says
Eloise Knight, a 20-year-old student who says she approached the restaurant for
work after reading stories about it.
「我想要待在跟我分享的想法相同的人們周圍。」一位20歲的學生Eloise Knight說,她說在她了解這餐廳的故事之後,便接觸這間餐廳的工作。
Knight and
her fellow employees wear only skimpy briefs adorned with a few strands of fake
vine leaves as they deliver food and drink to the tables.
當Knight和她的同事遞送食物和飲料到餐桌時,他們只穿著用幾縷藤葉所裝飾的極短內褲。
She says
that she feels safer at Bunyadi than at other restaurants since any customer
acting inappropriately will be instantly ejected.
她說她覺得比起其他餐廳,在「Bunyadi」更有安全感,因為任何非禮的顧客會被立刻逐出餐廳。
The
restaurant has a strict no cameras or cellphones policy, partly to protect the
privacy of those disrobing within, but also in line with its back-to-basics
natural feel.
這間餐廳有禁止相機及手機的規定,某種程度上是要保護其中那些赤裸的人們的隱私,但也是要符合其回歸原始的感受。
"It's
about being comfortable with nudity," she adds. "And it's nice to
help people feel that way. It's not a sexual thing."
Apparently
it works.
她補充:「一切都是因為全裸很自在,而且能夠幫助人們感同身受是很好的一件事,這不是一件跟性有關的事。」
很顯然地這奏效了。
Bunyadi's
designer and manager, Ignacio Jimenez Blanco, says about 80% of diners have
gotten naked during trial runs (it's totally optional).
「Bunyadi」的設計師及經理Ignacio Jimenez Blanco表示,在試營運期間,有約80%的用餐者選擇全裸(這完全是不強迫的)。
Naked bar
As the
employees feel more comfortable, so do the customers, he adds. There are plans
to introduce a naked bar area for those who feel comfortable mingling in their
birthday suits.
裸體酒吧
他補充,員工們感覺更自在,顧客們也是。
目前有計畫為了那些認為光著身子交際應酬更自在的人們擴增裸體酒吧區域。
"I
think people want to free themselves," he says. "I see it as a
therapy, it's very liberating. People want it and we're just providing a
location and a service."
他說:「我認為人們想要解放自己,我將其視為一種十分解脫的療法。人們想要如此,而我們只是提供一個地點及服務。」
Blanco has
created a restaurant interior that more closely resembles a spa than a
restaurant. It's a dimly lit space scented by aromatic candles and soundtracked
by soft music.
So it seems
appropriate that we're all wearing gowns, for now.
比起餐廳,Blanco設計餐廳的室內裝潢,比較像是spa。一個燈光昏暗的空間,空氣中可以聞到香氛蠟燭的香氣,以及輕音樂的配樂。
I'm seated
opposite another journalist, a man who I've never met before but who is in the
same situation as me -- nervously contemplating whether to disrobe.
我對面坐著另一位新聞記者,一個我先前從未見過的人,但是他和我一樣,緊張地思考著是否該脫光。
The food --
mostly raw, natural and seasonal in keeping with the restaurant's naked theme
-- is delivered in earthenware bowls and eaten using edible cutlery.
大多是未加工的、天然的及季節性的食物,符合其餐廳原始的主題,皆裝在陶碗內遞送,且使用可食用餐具用餐。
It's
delicious. There's an English garden soup paired with pickled apple and salted
cucumber for starters followed by salmon and seaweed salad.
食物很美味。用英式花園濃湯搭配醃漬的蘋果及用鹽調味的小黃瓜當作開胃菜,接著上的是鮭魚海藻沙拉。
The
five-course menu costs about $100 without drinks but including the gown and
slippers.
When the
steak tartare with goji berry and cilantro arrives, my fellow diner and I gulp
down the accompanying Argentinian Malbec and agree to get naked.
這份五道菜的菜單要價約美金100元,不含飲料,含浴袍及拖鞋。
當韃靼牛肉搭配枸杞及芫荽上菜時,我和同行的用餐者即大口的配著阿根廷的馬爾貝克紅酒用餐,而且同意全裸。
And it does
turn out to be curiously liberating.
Mostly it's
a relief. It's very warm inside Bunyadi and a thick toweling robe starts to
become uncomfortable after a while.
而其確實成了不尋常地解放。
基本上來說是一種抒發。「Bunyadi」裡頭非常溫暖,而待了一會兒後,厚重的毛巾料浴袍變得很不舒服。
The darkness
of the venue, the bamboo partitions and the strategically designed wooden
furniture help maintain some dignity.
場地的昏暗處、竹子的隔間及特製的木材家具協助維持其高尚感。
'Social experiment'
But what
should be an awkward moment, getting unclothed with a complete stranger, proves
to be anything but.
社交體驗
但是事實證明最尷尬的時刻,莫過於在一個完全陌生的人面前脫光衣服。
Unable to
resort to looking at our phones, we chat unreservedly about work, families and
whether the female magazine journalists at the next table have also stripped
down.
因為不能夠試圖去看我們的手機,我們毫無保留地談論工作、家庭以及隔壁桌的女性雜誌新聞記者是否也會脫光光。
Seb Lyall,
the entrepreneur behind the Bunyadi, describes it as a "social
experiment," and that's kind of what it feels like.
It's
certainly a new way to experience some truly excellent food.
「Bunyadi」幕後的企業家Seb Lyall,形容這是一個社交體驗,而感覺也就像是如此。
這確實是一個體驗一些實在美好餐點的全新方式。
Lyall says
he hopes it'll help tackle body objectification and perhaps inspire other
venues to at least strip away such modern distractions as cell phones.
Lyall表示他希望能夠幫助解決肉體客觀化,而或許能夠激發其他場地,至少拋開現代人的分心原因,例如手機。
With that in
mind, when the naked waitress arrives we concentrate very intently on making
eye contact and talking about the food.
It's all
rather exciting for a while.
以此謹記在心,當裸體的女服務生過來時,我們十分認真地專注在眼神接觸及談論食物。
而全程相當興奮了一會兒。
This is a
totally new experience for me. I'm not someone who would ever contemplate
stripping off in public -- I am, after all, English.
這對我來說是全新的體驗。我不是會認真思考在公共場合脫光光的人,畢竟,我是英國人。
I suddenly
feel like I've been granted entry into a secret, exhilarating new world.
Then my
dining companion announces he has to leave early.
Depressingly,
I'm now just a naked dude eating dessert, by candlelight, on my own.
Time to get
dressed.
突然間,我感覺我好像被允許進入一個神祕、令人興奮的世界。
而我用餐的同伴告知他要提前離開。
很沮喪地,我現在只是一個全裸的人,依偎著燭光,吃著甜點,就我自己一個人。
是時候該把衣服穿上了。